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Learn more about what we do in this article that appeared in Living sections of The Plain Dealer: It appeared as a Great Escapes feature by Debbi Snook.

As part of his "humanistic" tours, Karl C. Johnson tells how the old Cleveland Trust Co., once among the 10 largest banks in the world, "was noted for never firing a single person during the Depression. People went on two-thirds salary instead."
Intimate, personal tours of city
Strolling in "Cleveland" with an insightful guide steeped in its history

By Debbi Snook
Passing through the ornate doors of the Cuyahoga County Courthouse on Lakeside Ave., Art Neumann pauses and looks back.

"I don't know how many times I've been here and I've never seen that Indian face," he says, standing in a group of fellow sightseers.

And yet there it was, in the center of each door, a lifesized bronze relief of an American Indian chief resplendent in feather headdress.

Neumann may be a sightseer but he is no stranger to Cleveland. He and his group are volunteer docents at information booths operated by the Cleveland Convention and Visitors bureau. If anyone should know the city they should.

But familiar does not always mean intimate. And last week, a man named Karl C., Johnson introduced Neumann and seven other docents to his "Walking Tour of Cleaveland," a service he started this summer. After dropping off his brochures at the booths, Johnson wanted the docents to know what he was up to.

Turns out it's more than a tour. Johnson lets people savor the city's details, consider its fate and listen to the opinions of one of its greatest fans — him.

For example, standing in the parking lot behind City Hall, Johnson talks about the new, $124 million Browns football stadium, adding that it will be used only 12 times a year.

"And our schools are going into the sewer," he says with emphasis. He says he also feels bad for Browns fans who have remained loyal but are being asked to buy a seat license before they can buy a ticket.

Everybody in the group had an opinion on that, of course, and teamlike conversation followed.

Sometimes Johnson delivers information with its own message. After explaining the 1916 underground disaster in which Garrett Morgan rescued people with his new gas mask invention, Johnson points out that Morgan had to hire a white salesman to market it.

"Some people couldn't believe that a black man could invent such a thing."

And sometimes he just delivers the bracing facts of history: That the construction of Terminal Tower required the razing of more than 1,000 buildings and "in its day was an engineering feat second only to the Panama Canal.

Not a professional scholar or educator, Johnson, 64, worked as a staff assistant for the Cleveland Board of Education in the 1970s. He recently served on the board of the Ohio City Near West Development Corp. and sells alternative energy products. He is no stranger to public speaking.

Because he has always given family tours of the city, his wife, Elyria school psychologist Ruth Johnson-Straub, suggested he do it professionally. He immediately liked the idea.

"I love people," he says. "And I love the city." Research and life experience He went to the library to learn the basics, framing the information in the "life experience" of this childhood in Glenville and his later years in Shaker Heights and Ohio City.

"I wanted a tour that was not architectural but humanistic," he says. "It's not a Gray Line tour."

So when Johnson explains the grand Group Plan that created the county courthouse, City Hall, the library and post office in the early 1900s, he doesn't act like a know-it-all.

"My son, the architect, tells me this is the Beaux Arts style," he says.

For old-timers, he shakes memories loose in a folksy style, recalling the Pennsylvania Station at Euclid Ave. and E. 55th St., "a dandy building with a peaked roof." For those too young to remember, he explains that the sandstone structures on the west side of the Veterans Memorial (Detroit-Superior) Bridge, now county engineer storage, were once part of a bustling streetcar station.  

Johnson often talks in a snappy fashion that people can remember.

On Cleveland industrialist John D. Rockefeller: "A friend tells me that in today's money, Rockefeller would be way ahead of Bill Gates."

On the date when Terminal Tower was completed " Babe Ruth hit his 60th home run and the Dow Jones average was 200. I believe this morning it was at 8,000."

And on another city inventor: "Thomas Edison discovered electricity, but it was Charles Brush of Cleveland that electrified the street light."

Then there's his list of city "firsts": First city to teach foreign languages in elementary school, first to have home mail delivery, first to have airmail.

Johnson's tours last two hours and if people walk fast enough, he includes the interior of Old Stone Church, St. John Cathedral, the arcades and the new Louis Stokes Wing of the Cleveland Public Library. The same is true of his Ohio City tour, which can enter the West Side Market, a coffee and spice retailer and a law office in a deftly restored Victorian mansion.

Because Johnson lives in Ohio City, he can even tell you who lives in certain homes and how many different houses they have restored.

It's truly a front porch view. Johnson meets clients under the Terminal Tower clock at Public Square, or in the lobby if the weather is bad. When people see his company sign hanging from his chest, they sometimes think he's a protester.

It's even better: one man with a view of the city that is alive and kicking.

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